Take 5 pieces 18" of 1.2 or 1.4 mm braided blind cord and 'dope' the ends (about 1 - 1
1/2 ") with cyanoacrylate.... use a "thin" set formula for this and allow to harden up....
five-ten minutes tops.   

Snip off about 1/8" of the end at a 45 degree angle once dried... this becomes your
'needle' tip for  the following chazzerai.

Find the middle on each of the five lines.  FOR DEMONSTRATION PURPOSES ONLY I have
made a light pencil mark on the center of the line on one side only.  In practice this is not

Take a sharp awl with a fine point and pierce one line at the midpoint ... wriggle the line
down on the awl until you've a hole big enough to admit another line...

TRY not to stick yourself... blood really screws up the appearance!

Poke the needle end of the NEXT line thru it....  Twisting as you poke will help to get thru
the line....

Pierce the middle of the line you just poked through the other one, and then do this until
you've pierced all the lines.   

The end of the first line pierced will go thru the last line poked...  think about it a minute
and it'll make sense...

Tighten up the joint of all five lines and get it as tight as possible...

If you want (for learning purposes) put a VERY small dab of superglue on the pentacle
formed by the five line's centers... you want to try to glue ONLY the connecting ribs but
NOT the legs of the pentacle.... if you do get some wicking,  just work the lines back to
some semblance of pliability, then:

Make your star knot loops and tighten up until you're reasonably symmetrical,

NOTE:  A nice touch for cufflinks is to
make one with the stars going NORTH
and the other with the stars going SOUTH!

Crown back and proceed to tuck the star as per normal procedure... by the time you get
around to the last tucks the star should be pretty round...

It is important to be as "round" (symmetrical) as possible HERE... you won't have much
chance to change it as you go... line is too small.

Fair up and then flip, and tuck the legs over two and up, just like a normal star... You've
an advantage now without a stem in that you have a clear view of the holes thru which
the legs will tuck...

When done this, you should have all ten legs coming up thru the center of the star, each
in it's own little

(Naught to do with instructions,
just a shot of the lapel pin.......

Now you want to introduce the lapel pin's shaft DOWN through the center hole of the
pentacle from FRONT to BACK and cap the pin so you don't stick yerself..... Safety feckin'
first, innit?  (Same with the cufflink body...)

Wriggle the pin into position with all ten legs spaced around the flat plate.

Take any leg and count three over to the right (counter-clockwise)  and tuck DOWN and
through the fourth hole ...  

Do that for each alternate leg so that when done you have five legs still facing up, and
five legs going down thru the star, and also holding the lapel pin's plate in place.  Fair up
so the lines are all neat:



Now make another starknot with the five lines still facing up.... we will NOT be doing the
tuck-up unless you want to do something fancy with a centre crown..  Do the top star
THE SAME DIRECTION as the bottom star!  (looks better.)

I find that when the 5-point star is drawn up sufficiently tightly, that the double lines are
enough to cover any view of the flat plate and it looks just fine.

Once you've tucked thru and down the points, locate the
nearest unused hole in the
10-point star and tuck the legs thru them so that now you have all ten legs coming out
the back and each thru it's own hole....   Do this for each of the legs of the 5 point star.

(It is easiest to 'clearance' the hole by going in from the back with the sharp awl and just
'wriggling' enough to allow the leg to be fed through from the top....  pull through and
snug to fair up... this also holds the points of the 5-point down tightly to the body of the
10-point and prevents anything 'catching' under them.)

Turn the work over so you're now looking at the pin as it exits the star...

Fair up everything, then take any leg and hold it so that it faces AWAY from the axis of
the pin... take the leg immediately to it's RIGHT, take it between the  held line and the
star's axis and tuck it though the doubled lines BETWEEN the star points IMMEDIATELY
to the RIGHT of the held leg.   (
The large picture is annotated- click on this pic to see it.)

Repeat this in a COUNTER-CLOCKWISE fashion until you come to the last leg to be
tucked.... it will go through a loop formed by the first leg tucked and thus give you a
locking pattern on the back.

Tighten up in a CLOCKWISE fashion, twice around and give a good tug to each leg, then
snip off the excess close to the exit point (tug on the line firmly and cut while holding the
tension... since it's tucking under three parts there it should withdraw a bit under the
outermost line and so disappear.

Apply a dab of superglue to the inner tucked ring for security  and it should be good to go.
It can be washed, but by hand and gently so as not to bend or crackle the finish on the

For the IGKT Forum and Slipjig.

For Questions or Comments
Last updated  2009-01-01
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