G L O V E S!
You DO want to buy a GOOD pair of gloves to protect your dainty little epidermis! I favor the 3/4 finger sailing gloves as illustrated (as they
permit one to use the fingernails to neaten up the turns), but not necessarily that particular brand. They should have a good NON-STICKY
leather palm and finger surface but still be light weight.
One thing to note: when getting gloves be SURE that (unlike the gloves
in the photo) there is a good covering on the LITTLE FINGER: Most of
the force of coxcombing is applied by the side of the little finger and
the glove either must protect that or you need to tape it as per the
following paragraph!
You will be doing some heavy pulling and will tend to wear out the
border between the fabric and the leather on the outside of your
little fingers, so I take some "Celotex" or "Transpore" by 3M, which is
a plastic medical tape, and tape wherever I see a wear point
developing. Its not expensive, it doesn't really interfere with your
flexibility and a $3.00 roll of tape from which you'll get thirty uses is a
WHOLE lot cheaper than several pair of new gloves!
It also helps to run a piece of tape down the outside of the little finger and
onto the side of the palm BEFORE you put the gloves on: This helps keep
the line from creating a pressure point and eventually bruising the flesh.
Of course, if you're one of Robert Service's loggers "what stirs his
coffee with his thumb", you'll probably sneer at such "milque-toastian"
Precautions, but : lissen up, kids.
I been doing this stuff longer than some of youse has been breathing, and I USE GLOVES.
As always, your suggestions and critiques of the tutorials are encouraged!
You DO want to buy a GOOD pair of gloves to protect your dainty little epidermis! I favor the 3/4 finger sailing gloves as illustrated (as they
permit one to use the fingernails to neaten up the turns), but not necessarily that particular brand. They should have a good NON-STICKY
leather palm and finger surface but still be light weight.
One thing to note: when getting gloves be SURE that (unlike the gloves
in the photo) there is a good covering on the LITTLE FINGER: Most of
the force of coxcombing is applied by the side of the little finger and
the glove either must protect that or you need to tape it as per the
following paragraph!
You will be doing some heavy pulling and will tend to wear out the
border between the fabric and the leather on the outside of your
little fingers, so I take some "Celotex" or "Transpore" by 3M, which is
a plastic medical tape, and tape wherever I see a wear point
developing. Its not expensive, it doesn't really interfere with your
flexibility and a $3.00 roll of tape from which you'll get thirty uses is a
WHOLE lot cheaper than several pair of new gloves!
It also helps to run a piece of tape down the outside of the little finger and
onto the side of the palm BEFORE you put the gloves on: This helps keep
the line from creating a pressure point and eventually bruising the flesh.
Of course, if you're one of Robert Service's loggers "what stirs his
coffee with his thumb", you'll probably sneer at such "milque-toastian"
Precautions, but : lissen up, kids.
I been doing this stuff longer than some of youse has been breathing, and I USE GLOVES.
As always, your suggestions and critiques of the tutorials are encouraged!
| COXCOMBING |
| Last updated 29 OCT 2010 |
| Click on any picture to bring up a larger verzion! |
"COXCOMBING" refers to any sort of fancy work applied to a tubular surface to "dress" it up, provide a
handgrip, act as a chafing guard or just to pass the time while at sea whit nothing else to do. At one time in
the Navy, every rail would be coxcombed with varying patterns and putting it on, keeping it painted and
repaired and replacing it at intervals was a large part of the apprentice deck-seaman's life. It taught precision,
patience, and gave a knowledge of laid rope that would have been unobtainable otherwise for the average
sailor.
Sadly, with the geometric diminuition of ship's crews in the modern Navy, there is little if any time for the sailor
to indulge in this pastime and so it is slowly passing from knowledge, except as a curiosity.
On the following pages, I will show how to do the basic coxcombings and (if I can remember) some of the more
esoteric types of the art.
handgrip, act as a chafing guard or just to pass the time while at sea whit nothing else to do. At one time in
the Navy, every rail would be coxcombed with varying patterns and putting it on, keeping it painted and
repaired and replacing it at intervals was a large part of the apprentice deck-seaman's life. It taught precision,
patience, and gave a knowledge of laid rope that would have been unobtainable otherwise for the average
sailor.
Sadly, with the geometric diminuition of ship's crews in the modern Navy, there is little if any time for the sailor
to indulge in this pastime and so it is slowly passing from knowledge, except as a curiosity.
On the following pages, I will show how to do the basic coxcombings and (if I can remember) some of the more
esoteric types of the art.
 | |  | |  | |  | |  |
 | |  | |  | |  | |  |
 | |  |
| SINGLE STRAND Simple Coxcomb French (Bannister) Coxcomb |
| FOUR OR MORE STRAND Doubled Moku Doubled Half--Moku |
Supplies: Many people will head for their local "Servi-Star" or Ace Hardware, Home Despot or Lowe's and
look for line to do this..... don't bother. The best you'll find is Mason's Cord and it is neither consistant
enough, tightly-laid or the same colour throughout a single ball at times.
Contact MARTY COMBS for cotton and some hemp lines in a myriad of sizes. He also has MANY wonderful
books and tools on his site as well... damage to your wallet is NOT my problem, d'ye ken?
For radially-woven lines in MANY colours, some excellent hemp (tarred and un-tarred) and a stunning
selection of tools and knowledge, Bob Dollar at R & W Rope is an excellent resource for the knotter.
look for line to do this..... don't bother. The best you'll find is Mason's Cord and it is neither consistant
enough, tightly-laid or the same colour throughout a single ball at times.
Contact MARTY COMBS for cotton and some hemp lines in a myriad of sizes. He also has MANY wonderful
books and tools on his site as well... damage to your wallet is NOT my problem, d'ye ken?
For radially-woven lines in MANY colours, some excellent hemp (tarred and un-tarred) and a stunning
selection of tools and knowledge, Bob Dollar at R & W Rope is an excellent resource for the knotter.
TOOLS AND REQUIREMENTS:
Some are basic and you've already thought of them or bought them in the past, but there's a few....
See below for line suggestions. The quality of your work is directly proportional to the quality of your
materials.
A sharp ( !! ) single-edged knife
A spool of sail or whipping twine for stropping the line to the work.
A sharp AND a dull pointed awl.
GLOVES (see below).
A few old pillowcases... seriously!
Saran Wrap (or any clear wrap), to cover the completed work until you can get it varnished / painted /
whatever. This will protect the work from the many handprints and smudges that come when the General Public (or the owner of the
vessel) comes along after having shoveled coal, eaten greasy fried chicken or applied hair pomade to his four remaining strands and
wants to "see how it feels". Strop the saran wrap to the work at six-inch intervals and use the sharp knife to cut hands off at wrists if
necessary. (Bloody civilians!)
Some are basic and you've already thought of them or bought them in the past, but there's a few....
See below for line suggestions. The quality of your work is directly proportional to the quality of your
materials.
A sharp ( !! ) single-edged knife
A spool of sail or whipping twine for stropping the line to the work.
A sharp AND a dull pointed awl.
GLOVES (see below).
A few old pillowcases... seriously!
Saran Wrap (or any clear wrap), to cover the completed work until you can get it varnished / painted /
whatever. This will protect the work from the many handprints and smudges that come when the General Public (or the owner of the
vessel) comes along after having shoveled coal, eaten greasy fried chicken or applied hair pomade to his four remaining strands and
wants to "see how it feels". Strop the saran wrap to the work at six-inch intervals and use the sharp knife to cut hands off at wrists if
necessary. (Bloody civilians!)
Before we go further, I should tell you that I know in advance that many of you will want to coxcomb some part
of your boat, your car, your girlfriend (Girlfriends done at a discount.... usually...) or yourselves but simply won't want to
spend the time, effort and skin to learn this.
I do this for a living, and I travel the East Coast of the U.S. I can be tempted to other locales and climes but I
will probably refer you to someone who works (on the West Coast)(in Canada) (Somewhere cold and nasty).
IT IS NOT CHEAP. Please email me for a quotation if you so desire or just to talk about the possibility of
getting this done for your (whatever) and have "Kleenex" handy.
of your boat, your car, your girlfriend (Girlfriends done at a discount.... usually...) or yourselves but simply won't want to
spend the time, effort and skin to learn this.
I do this for a living, and I travel the East Coast of the U.S. I can be tempted to other locales and climes but I
will probably refer you to someone who works (on the West Coast)(in Canada) (Somewhere cold and nasty).
IT IS NOT CHEAP. Please email me for a quotation if you so desire or just to talk about the possibility of
getting this done for your (whatever) and have "Kleenex" handy.
WORK BY READERS!
Now, when you're as old as I am, sometimes the choice between "pretty girls" is a bit blurry, but here we have BOTH my favorite types
and they're BOTH winners!
AnaDilia Firestein and her hubby own the wooden F/V FORTUNE in the Pacific
Northwest and she had asked for some assistance in getting the rails on FORTUNE
done up in a "French Bannister"
coxcomb.
After I confused her totally with
my drivel, she and hubby went
to town on it and came up with
a top-notch job that I thought
I'd share with youse lot...
That's FORTUNE on the LEFT,
just in case you're older than I
am and need reminding.
Note how nicely she has gotten the turkshead up to the vertical stanchion and the tightness and regularity of the coxcomb. Here it's been
coated with some clear polyurethane in the second and third pics.
\
Expert supervision and advice is ALWAYS Full rail almost finished up... nice work! Ah, but there's ALWAYS something else
a necessity! that needs changing.... and in this case,
it was the color scheme! Click on this
pic to see insets of the VERY neat mask-
ing-off job !
The finished rail.... very nicely done! Not much detail lost in the painting, either!
(I think she must have just read one of my emails!)
Now, when you're as old as I am, sometimes the choice between "pretty girls" is a bit blurry, but here we have BOTH my favorite types
and they're BOTH winners!
AnaDilia Firestein and her hubby own the wooden F/V FORTUNE in the Pacific
Northwest and she had asked for some assistance in getting the rails on FORTUNE
done up in a "French Bannister"
coxcomb.
After I confused her totally with
my drivel, she and hubby went
to town on it and came up with
a top-notch job that I thought
I'd share with youse lot...
That's FORTUNE on the LEFT,
just in case you're older than I
am and need reminding.
Note how nicely she has gotten the turkshead up to the vertical stanchion and the tightness and regularity of the coxcomb. Here it's been
coated with some clear polyurethane in the second and third pics.
\
Expert supervision and advice is ALWAYS Full rail almost finished up... nice work! Ah, but there's ALWAYS something else
a necessity! that needs changing.... and in this case,
it was the color scheme! Click on this
pic to see insets of the VERY neat mask-
ing-off job !
The finished rail.... very nicely done! Not much detail lost in the painting, either!
(I think she must have just read one of my emails!)
