The "Half Moku" coxcomb has been used for  years on handrails
and on the rims of yachts because it gives an excellent grip for
the hand, while providing a smooth under-wrap for the fingers to

Here's an example aboard the USS Zuni (ATF 95) [USCGC TAMAROA
WMEC-166] which probably dates from the mid-sixties.   This rail is in
forward twartships companionway and the ladder leads up to the 01
level (Radio and Captain's quarters) and down to Officer Country.

The ship (at the time of the picture) had been decommissioned for over
18 years and so there is a LOT of dust buildup on the rails, as well as
a fair amount of damage from sliding equipment across the rails as
she was "stripped out".

Start by stropping two lines to the rail/wheel to be covered.

For this coxcomb, use the tightest-laid line you can obtain...
it pays off in the finished appearance.

If you can't get a really tight-laid cotton line, consider using
(on a standard 1.75" piperail) some 3mm polyester-covered
nylon-cored line.  It will give an excellent result.

Take the RIGHT hand side line and make a half-hitch
going to your LEFT.  Get this as tight as you can without
pulling the line out of it's stropping..

WEAR YOUR GLOVES!  This coxcomb is truly [turly???]
tough on your hands!)

("Don't spell like my brother!")

Now take the free line (the LEFT hand line) and half-hitch
over the first and to your RIGHT.  (Don't forget to "roll" the
line in your fingers to tighten up the lay!) then take the first
line and make another half-hitch to the left and then tighten the
livin' crapdoodle out of the hitching.  You want these and the
hitches to be as tight as possible and all about the same size.  
(It's important... really.)

Fair up back and sides as you go... when pulling this tight you
won't get that much of a chance to do corrections later.  

Keep on doing alternate-side hitching until you reach the SIXTH
from the apex... tighten everything up hard as you go!

(Keep rolling that line between your fingers, but ONLY when
you're hitching to the right, or against the lay. )

Tricky part:   you should have SIX hitches on each side, including the
one forming the apex of the pyramid.  

Your SIXTH half-hitch on both sides is where you'll reverse directions,
and it needs to be as tight as the rest of them, just heading in
the opposite direction.

Continue doing alternate sides, rolling the line going RIGHT!

(Just showing you how it looks when you've reversed
and tightened up.)

Now you should be looking at something like this.  It will NOT be
a totally symmetrical "diamond" shape as you have a large body
being covered and using large line, but your edge points should
be a just about the sidelines and your crossing point should be
approximately at the centreline of the work.

Since our initial crossing was from LEFT to RIGHT, we'll do that
again, so half-hitch to the right and OVER the series heading in
the other direction and then just snug it down...

Now take the line you just crossed over, hitch to the LEFT and
then tighten them both down as much as possible.

Consider this to be the first hitches in the next series and
once again do six hitches, make the reverses, com back to
center, cross and continue until you're finished.

(Sorry about the colour... never let a Boatswain's Mate loose around
anything more complex than a chipping hammer!)

As I'd said, using large line on a large pipe rail will tend to
exaggerate the slight skewing of the diamond pattern ...
not to worry: "It'll never be noticed from a galloping horse!"

The main worry points for this one are to keep your side points
in as lose to a straight line as possible and the apices of the
diamonds on the centre-line,

Tightening everything up as you go and fairing will also contribute
to the neatness of the job.

The diamonds ALWAYS go UP on the rail or the wheel's rim.  
They are there to improve your grip and that is best done when
the pattern faces up.

Some people will want to paint this instead of varnishing, but varnish is (IMO) a better treatment as it will not "fill in" the
projections of the hitching as much as paint will and will thus produce a more "grippable" job.

Last pic just shows the side points in a straight line...  Gives the
work a lot more visual impact!

NOTE:  To convert this to a
"full Moku" wrap, just
don't reverse at the side points.  
Continue each line around in a
"French" coxcomb,  hitching
alternating sides and you'll meet in the back, at "180

Do the  crossover as described and continue
in the same direction and your next crossover
will be in the front again at "0 degrees"...

Keep it straight!

If you have comments, suggestions, questions or want to do a tutorial for the site, please EMAIL ME and  let me know!

Love to see pictures of your projects, both under construction as well as finished!

Fair Winds!

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Two Line
"Half-Moku" Coxcomb
(with inst. for "Full")
Last updated  Nov 02 2010
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