| Making a Knotting Table (or: How you too can take an innocent T. V. Table and make a weapon of mass inscrutability from it, in three easy steps.) |
| Last updated 2009-09-08 |
Well, when you think about it, it's a lot easier to buggar up something that's already been built than it is to
buggar up your own creation from scratch.
So, I got meself some of those wooden T. V. tables in a set of four, with a lovely little rack for storing them,
and all for about $50 USD. They're available from TARGET, WALMART, KOHLS, KMART, or any number of
discount stores. It's a standard "X" leg table and it's all wood.
There are several interesting features here that need enumeration.
On the floor, I have a cheap-o rag rug (appx 60 CM x 1 M), the which are readily available at almost any Dollar
Store", or at WalMart, K-Mart, Target or other large discount stores. Usually they're about a dollar or so each
and I'll use one for five or six months and then just discard it when it gets too dirty to be sustainable. Buy five
or six and store them.
This only applies if you're working on a hardwood floor. On concrete, I use a large piece of heavy cardboard
(sold at most packing stores to make irregular sized boxes or for mailing picture frames) instead. The rug
allows one to slide the table back or pull it forward without scratching or wearing the hardwood floor, as well
as catching any drips (and there are many/ MANY drips!) of the superglue I'll discuss later. If your room has
wall-to-wall carpeting, use the sheet of cardboard in conjunction with the cheap rug. I can guarantee you that
drips of superglue on carpeting are the best way possible to have the local constabulary investigating your
sudden and violent demise at the hands of your "Significant Other". DAMHIKT.
Along both short sides I have drilled six holes at 40° above nadir (see the picture and note the clipped
skewers sticking out the side of the table top) the size of a medium bamboo skewer or a little larger. From
these skewers I support finished work, work in progress and rolls of line, suspending same from dowels
lashed so that I can get three rolls of line suspended vertically, usually two wide. In this iteration, the first
dowel is quite longer than the top of the table and I could actually put four reels on that one alone.
In the front of the table, I took a piece of oak and cut it to be the same thickness as the table top, then drilled
thru it in two places in the front and attached to the leading edge of the table with four washers between it
and the table's edge. (Provides clearance to pass a line or to sweep off the table-top)
Into the top of this false edge I have drilled two lines of holes, one series 1/4" apart and one series 3/8" apart
from screw to screw. I use these with the clipped skewers to support square knotting work. Also, I have
lashed two skewers vertically on the front of the bar just inboard the screws and I pass a long skewer under
these lashings along the top and use that to clamp any work that requires it. Also, at both ends along the top I
have drilled holes which allow me to store my awls vertically. (In the picture I have one sitting in once of the
center holes, but they usually sit to the right in their own holes.) For the holes in the bar, drill only about 3/4 of
the way thru the bar... don't go all the way thru or your skewers will drop out and be useless. DAMHIKT
You'll also notice two turk's heads at either end of the bar.... I added them from vanity, nothing more. They're
useful for holding pins and sail needles but the grommets are basically used only to hold pliers or nipper's
handles and I find it easier to just put them on the tabletop. Stab myself a lot less, to boot.
(Let me say that if you find some cheap bamboo skewers of medium size, buy TEN PACKS of them and store
them... you will go thru a few each project. Good to have all the same size to fit the drilled holes.)
Along the top away from you (here, look for the multicoloured lines at the top of the table) you will see a black
dot. There are two of them, but the other is not visible on the other side of the table. Equally spaced under
the dots are two larger brass cuphooks. I use them when I do not have quite so much line suspended
beneath the table and rig a harness which allows me to suspend a bag or bucket in which I keep about 5# of
weight. Either the weight OR the line will keep the very lite table from tipping forward onto you when you are
tugging on a piece of fancywork.
ON the table you will see a white bottle-shaped object. This is my bottle of Super Glue (Cyano Acrylate) which I
use for everything from "tipping" lines to doing anti-frays, tacking the bottoms of bellropes prior to covering,
sealing lashings that will be covered by fancy work and the like. I find it totally indispensable, but you must
always take into account that once it's spilled it will not come off that surface unless you have some
"debonder" and are lucky. Use it carefully and D O N ' T B R E A T H E T H E F U M E S ! ! ! When working with
this stuff, for Chrissake, DO IT OVER THE CARDBOARD OR THE RAG RUG! (We went thru the "why" already,
innit?) I've had a rag rug become absolutely solid due to the amount of glue dripped upon it. Consider the
cardboard or rag rug like the sacrificial anode in your water-heater. It's not necessary, but there will come a
time when you are VERY glad you had it. DAMHIKT
Have a good light over your right shoulder, preferably on a gooseneck so you can get highlights on the work,
as well as a good general lighting. I, predictably, have neither, but then, I'm already blind. The better the
lighting, the easier the work.
The other (and MOST important) accessories are: the TV and VCR/DVD remotes! I will ALWAYS have something
on the TV or radio... I can't STAND to work in a silent environment. I need something making noise (preferably
intelligent) while I work. Makes the time go faster.
Well, so much for the table.
If you'll go to the tutorials page you'll find links and suggestions for line and books, glue and support.
Let me know if there's anything else I can talk at you about.
Incidentally, DAMHIKT?
"Don't Ask Me How I Know That".
Return to TUTORIALS PAGES
Or, use a radial button below:
buggar up your own creation from scratch.
So, I got meself some of those wooden T. V. tables in a set of four, with a lovely little rack for storing them,
and all for about $50 USD. They're available from TARGET, WALMART, KOHLS, KMART, or any number of
discount stores. It's a standard "X" leg table and it's all wood.
There are several interesting features here that need enumeration.
On the floor, I have a cheap-o rag rug (appx 60 CM x 1 M), the which are readily available at almost any Dollar
Store", or at WalMart, K-Mart, Target or other large discount stores. Usually they're about a dollar or so each
and I'll use one for five or six months and then just discard it when it gets too dirty to be sustainable. Buy five
or six and store them.
This only applies if you're working on a hardwood floor. On concrete, I use a large piece of heavy cardboard
(sold at most packing stores to make irregular sized boxes or for mailing picture frames) instead. The rug
allows one to slide the table back or pull it forward without scratching or wearing the hardwood floor, as well
as catching any drips (and there are many/ MANY drips!) of the superglue I'll discuss later. If your room has
wall-to-wall carpeting, use the sheet of cardboard in conjunction with the cheap rug. I can guarantee you that
drips of superglue on carpeting are the best way possible to have the local constabulary investigating your
sudden and violent demise at the hands of your "Significant Other". DAMHIKT.
Along both short sides I have drilled six holes at 40° above nadir (see the picture and note the clipped
skewers sticking out the side of the table top) the size of a medium bamboo skewer or a little larger. From
these skewers I support finished work, work in progress and rolls of line, suspending same from dowels
lashed so that I can get three rolls of line suspended vertically, usually two wide. In this iteration, the first
dowel is quite longer than the top of the table and I could actually put four reels on that one alone.
In the front of the table, I took a piece of oak and cut it to be the same thickness as the table top, then drilled
thru it in two places in the front and attached to the leading edge of the table with four washers between it
and the table's edge. (Provides clearance to pass a line or to sweep off the table-top)
Into the top of this false edge I have drilled two lines of holes, one series 1/4" apart and one series 3/8" apart
from screw to screw. I use these with the clipped skewers to support square knotting work. Also, I have
lashed two skewers vertically on the front of the bar just inboard the screws and I pass a long skewer under
these lashings along the top and use that to clamp any work that requires it. Also, at both ends along the top I
have drilled holes which allow me to store my awls vertically. (In the picture I have one sitting in once of the
center holes, but they usually sit to the right in their own holes.) For the holes in the bar, drill only about 3/4 of
the way thru the bar... don't go all the way thru or your skewers will drop out and be useless. DAMHIKT
You'll also notice two turk's heads at either end of the bar.... I added them from vanity, nothing more. They're
useful for holding pins and sail needles but the grommets are basically used only to hold pliers or nipper's
handles and I find it easier to just put them on the tabletop. Stab myself a lot less, to boot.
(Let me say that if you find some cheap bamboo skewers of medium size, buy TEN PACKS of them and store
them... you will go thru a few each project. Good to have all the same size to fit the drilled holes.)
Along the top away from you (here, look for the multicoloured lines at the top of the table) you will see a black
dot. There are two of them, but the other is not visible on the other side of the table. Equally spaced under
the dots are two larger brass cuphooks. I use them when I do not have quite so much line suspended
beneath the table and rig a harness which allows me to suspend a bag or bucket in which I keep about 5# of
weight. Either the weight OR the line will keep the very lite table from tipping forward onto you when you are
tugging on a piece of fancywork.
ON the table you will see a white bottle-shaped object. This is my bottle of Super Glue (Cyano Acrylate) which I
use for everything from "tipping" lines to doing anti-frays, tacking the bottoms of bellropes prior to covering,
sealing lashings that will be covered by fancy work and the like. I find it totally indispensable, but you must
always take into account that once it's spilled it will not come off that surface unless you have some
"debonder" and are lucky. Use it carefully and D O N ' T B R E A T H E T H E F U M E S ! ! ! When working with
this stuff, for Chrissake, DO IT OVER THE CARDBOARD OR THE RAG RUG! (We went thru the "why" already,
innit?) I've had a rag rug become absolutely solid due to the amount of glue dripped upon it. Consider the
cardboard or rag rug like the sacrificial anode in your water-heater. It's not necessary, but there will come a
time when you are VERY glad you had it. DAMHIKT
Have a good light over your right shoulder, preferably on a gooseneck so you can get highlights on the work,
as well as a good general lighting. I, predictably, have neither, but then, I'm already blind. The better the
lighting, the easier the work.
The other (and MOST important) accessories are: the TV and VCR/DVD remotes! I will ALWAYS have something
on the TV or radio... I can't STAND to work in a silent environment. I need something making noise (preferably
intelligent) while I work. Makes the time go faster.
Well, so much for the table.
If you'll go to the tutorials page you'll find links and suggestions for line and books, glue and support.
Let me know if there's anything else I can talk at you about.
Incidentally, DAMHIKT?
"Don't Ask Me How I Know That".
Return to TUTORIALS PAGES
Or, use a radial button below:
 | |  | |  | |  | |  |
 | |  | |  | |  | |  |
 | |  |
