| Scrimshaw Bamboo $300.00 (3-lines) or $340.00 (4-lines) I have been asked to do these so many times that I'm finally giving in. Scrimshawed into bamboo, your ship's name, your name and a homeport, or .... whatever. All of these took several days of hard hand work to complete. All will have a cork OR a star-knot stopper, monkey's fist draw-line, be bound at top and bottom and include a balancing turkshead. While these are primarily intended for display, they will make a very good working needlecase as well. |
| Needle Cases |
| Click on any picture for a larger verzion. |
I usually make needle cases from "found" materials or from bamboo: The ones marked 020606, 021006 and 022006 were made
using the center cores of used-up spools of line. Varnished and sealed on the outside and for an inch or more on the inside, they
are pretty moisture proof. The bamboo cases depend on my being able to obtain good, clear bamboo sections... I often have to order
up to five 8' sections just to get one scrimshaw-able case blank!
The needles are ALWAYS placed in the case point-first, and this prevents them from sticking you when trying to extract them. In the
old days, there would have been a block of tallow in the case and all needles would occasionally be run thru it for rust-prevention.
Nowaday I recommend a cotton ball with some oil or WD40 in the end of the BAMBOO cases!! As for the cotton cases, I spray my
needles occasionally with WD-40 for storage.
The needles need to be waxed prior to use on canvas and I would keep a lump of beeswax in the case as well. These cases will
hold a lump of wax and up to twenty #12 needles comfortably.
The case weave is of #15 cotton seine twine: 020606 has a fixed (glued-in) starknot stopper for a
base and a cork for a removable stopper, while 021006 has two constructed star knot stoppers.
Both are 8" length o.a., 5.5" inside length, 2" o.d. and appx. 11/16" i.d.
PLEASE NOTE: Needlecases require a 50% deposit prior to beginning work.
Personalized items are not returnable except for defective workmanship.
using the center cores of used-up spools of line. Varnished and sealed on the outside and for an inch or more on the inside, they
are pretty moisture proof. The bamboo cases depend on my being able to obtain good, clear bamboo sections... I often have to order
up to five 8' sections just to get one scrimshaw-able case blank!
The needles are ALWAYS placed in the case point-first, and this prevents them from sticking you when trying to extract them. In the
old days, there would have been a block of tallow in the case and all needles would occasionally be run thru it for rust-prevention.
Nowaday I recommend a cotton ball with some oil or WD40 in the end of the BAMBOO cases!! As for the cotton cases, I spray my
needles occasionally with WD-40 for storage.
The needles need to be waxed prior to use on canvas and I would keep a lump of beeswax in the case as well. These cases will
hold a lump of wax and up to twenty #12 needles comfortably.
The case weave is of #15 cotton seine twine: 020606 has a fixed (glued-in) starknot stopper for a
base and a cork for a removable stopper, while 021006 has two constructed star knot stoppers.
Both are 8" length o.a., 5.5" inside length, 2" o.d. and appx. 11/16" i.d.
PLEASE NOTE: Needlecases require a 50% deposit prior to beginning work.
Personalized items are not returnable except for defective workmanship.
Model 020606 $360.00 Appx 8" O.A.
(Stain from some coffee...oops!)
Body graft of #18 white line, turksheads of #21 hard-laid
line.
SOLD Will replicate on order. (minus the stain!)
(Stain from some coffee...oops!)
Body graft of #18 white line, turksheads of #21 hard-laid
line.
SOLD Will replicate on order. (minus the stain!)
| Model 021006 Fancy end $4100.00 Appx 8" O.A. SOLD Will replicate on order |
First case I ever made... Piece of bamboo from S.E.
Asia with a little scrimshaw. Appx. 4 " inside.
(also another view of 021006)
Asia with a little scrimshaw. Appx. 4 " inside.
(also another view of 021006)
| ..... ...... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... |
Mod. 022006 Larger case for storage of roping needles ( #4 and smaller) 8.5" i.d. length, over 11"
overall. $600.00 Body grafts of #18 polished cotton seine....turksheads of #15 hard-laid cotton seine.
overall. $600.00 Body grafts of #18 polished cotton seine....turksheads of #15 hard-laid cotton seine.
Barrel section with two 3x9 turksheads flanking a 7x6 TH.
End with seven eye-spliced
lines running from the interior of
an 8x7 turks to a seven-point
starknot stopper. Each end is
rove thru a point, then thru the
eye and back thru the point and
is buried inside the starknot's
body.
lines running from the interior of
an 8x7 turks to a seven-point
starknot stopper. Each end is
rove thru a point, then thru the
eye and back thru the point and
is buried inside the starknot's
body.
Detail of end-stopper 7 point starknot... A bit
undressed as it does not yet have its lanyard
installed.
undressed as it does not yet have its lanyard
installed.
If you have a special tube you'd like to have grafted and finished for a needlecase, I'll be happy to do it
for you. Some folks don't like bamboo and would prefer this done over a piece of PVC, metal (Brass
recommended!) or a wood tube they have.... I do it on any hollow and tubular item.
Email me with details for a price quote.
for you. Some folks don't like bamboo and would prefer this done over a piece of PVC, metal (Brass
recommended!) or a wood tube they have.... I do it on any hollow and tubular item.
Email me with details for a price quote.
TIPS:
ALWAYS oil or grease your needles when storing them. A pitted needle is just a PITA to use as it constantly catches on the fabric
being sewn.
Put a pad of cotton or a cottonball with some good penetrating oil in the bottom of the case... it will help prevent 'storage rust' from
forming. This WILL stain the endcap (unless you're using a cork) and, most likely, will migrate through the case wall as well, staining
the exterior, but these are supposed to be WORKING tools, so a bit of staining and marking is to be expected, innit? If you get one of
mine and want to keep it pristine, don't bloody use it, then. Just stick it on the shelf for the punters to ooo and ahh at, but that's not
what I make 'em for. Chris Collins of Vermont just got one and is going to try varnishing and see how it comes out... I'll let you know.
If your needles DO get rusty, you can clean them with a small can (tightly sealed) about 1/4 full of fine beach sand. Put the needles in
the container with the sand and just gently shake it until your arm thinks it belongs to someone else. Problem with this is that it also
removes the bright finish from the needles, but if you then keep them oiled and grease them prior to use, they should last a good, long
time.
If not putting an oilpad in the case, at least put a cottonball in the bottom so the needles will not dull out from being bashed about in
the tube/case.
ALWAYS put the needles into the case POINT-FIRST (keeps you from looking like a porcupine's victim when you open it later!) and, if
possible, run a bit of sailtwine thru all the eyes to tie them together and further restrict banging about in the case. This WILL go a long
way to preserving something that you can't always conveniently replace, especially at sea.
(more tips on Sailmaking pages)
ALWAYS oil or grease your needles when storing them. A pitted needle is just a PITA to use as it constantly catches on the fabric
being sewn.
Put a pad of cotton or a cottonball with some good penetrating oil in the bottom of the case... it will help prevent 'storage rust' from
forming. This WILL stain the endcap (unless you're using a cork) and, most likely, will migrate through the case wall as well, staining
the exterior, but these are supposed to be WORKING tools, so a bit of staining and marking is to be expected, innit? If you get one of
mine and want to keep it pristine, don't bloody use it, then. Just stick it on the shelf for the punters to ooo and ahh at, but that's not
what I make 'em for. Chris Collins of Vermont just got one and is going to try varnishing and see how it comes out... I'll let you know.
If your needles DO get rusty, you can clean them with a small can (tightly sealed) about 1/4 full of fine beach sand. Put the needles in
the container with the sand and just gently shake it until your arm thinks it belongs to someone else. Problem with this is that it also
removes the bright finish from the needles, but if you then keep them oiled and grease them prior to use, they should last a good, long
time.
If not putting an oilpad in the case, at least put a cottonball in the bottom so the needles will not dull out from being bashed about in
the tube/case.
ALWAYS put the needles into the case POINT-FIRST (keeps you from looking like a porcupine's victim when you open it later!) and, if
possible, run a bit of sailtwine thru all the eyes to tie them together and further restrict banging about in the case. This WILL go a long
way to preserving something that you can't always conveniently replace, especially at sea.
(more tips on Sailmaking pages)
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| LAST REV: 09-01-2014 |
| (Primary usage is for display and/or presentation!) |
| Please note: Colour of bamboo is "as available"... I will try to match your requests! |