| Needle Cases |
| Click on any picture for a larger verzion. |
I usually make needle cases from "found" materials: The ones marked 020606, 021006 and 022006
were made using the center cores of used-up spools of line. Varnished and sealed on the outside and
for an inch or more on the inside, they are pretty moisture proof. The needles (as they should be) are
ALWAYS placed in the case point-first, and this prevents them from sticking you when trying to extract
them. In the old days, there would have been a block of tallow in the case and all needles would
occasionally be run thru it for rust-prevention. While I spray 'em with WD-40 for storage, certainly the
needles need to be waxed prior to use on a canvas and I would keep a lump of beeswax in the case as
well. These cases will hold a lump of wax and up to twenty #12 needles comfortably.
The case weave is of #15 cotton seine twine: 020606 has a fixed (glued-in) starknot stopper for a
base and a cork for a removable stopper, while 021006 has two constructed star knot stoppers.
Both are 8" length o.a., 5.5" inside length, 2" o.d. and appx. 11/16" i.d.
were made using the center cores of used-up spools of line. Varnished and sealed on the outside and
for an inch or more on the inside, they are pretty moisture proof. The needles (as they should be) are
ALWAYS placed in the case point-first, and this prevents them from sticking you when trying to extract
them. In the old days, there would have been a block of tallow in the case and all needles would
occasionally be run thru it for rust-prevention. While I spray 'em with WD-40 for storage, certainly the
needles need to be waxed prior to use on a canvas and I would keep a lump of beeswax in the case as
well. These cases will hold a lump of wax and up to twenty #12 needles comfortably.
The case weave is of #15 cotton seine twine: 020606 has a fixed (glued-in) starknot stopper for a
base and a cork for a removable stopper, while 021006 has two constructed star knot stoppers.
Both are 8" length o.a., 5.5" inside length, 2" o.d. and appx. 11/16" i.d.
Model 020606 $190.00
(Stain from some coffee...oops!)
Body graft of #21 hard-laid twine, Turksheads of #21
hard-laid. All cotton line
SOLD Will replicate on order. (minus the stain!)
(Stain from some coffee...oops!)
Body graft of #21 hard-laid twine, Turksheads of #21
hard-laid. All cotton line
SOLD Will replicate on order. (minus the stain!)
Model 021006 Fancy end $225.00
SOLD Will replicate on order
Detail of end stopper with the lashings in
place. This is non-removable, the lashings
being buried in the body of the stopper and
terminating thru the turksheads with manrope
knots.
.......... .......... .......... .......... .......... ..........
The retainer line for the top stopper is rove
thru an eyesplice and then eyespliced into the
fabric of the cover weaving. The top eyesplice,
the spliced portions of the retailer and the
manrope knobs are all treated with a
fast-acting cement to prevent unlaying.
The eyes and splices can be left untreated
should you wish to do a service on them.
Better you than me!
(background book:
"The Marlinspike Sailor", by Hervey Garrett
Smith. A wonderful
book that should be in every knotter's
collection!)
SOLD Will replicate on order
Detail of end stopper with the lashings in
place. This is non-removable, the lashings
being buried in the body of the stopper and
terminating thru the turksheads with manrope
knots.
.......... .......... .......... .......... .......... ..........
The retainer line for the top stopper is rove
thru an eyesplice and then eyespliced into the
fabric of the cover weaving. The top eyesplice,
the spliced portions of the retailer and the
manrope knobs are all treated with a
fast-acting cement to prevent unlaying.
The eyes and splices can be left untreated
should you wish to do a service on them.
Better you than me!
(background book:
"The Marlinspike Sailor", by Hervey Garrett
Smith. A wonderful
book that should be in every knotter's
collection!)
| ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... |
First case I ever made... Piece of bamboo from S.E.
Asia with a little scrimshaw. Pretty basic, but it
keeps the smaller needles dry. Appx. 4 " inside.
(also another view of 021006)
Asia with a little scrimshaw. Pretty basic, but it
keeps the smaller needles dry. Appx. 4 " inside.
(also another view of 021006)
Star-knot stoppers as shewn
are of #96 cable-laid cotton line
are of #96 cable-laid cotton line
| ..... ...... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... |
Mod. 022006 Larger case for storage of roping needles ( #4 and smaller) 8.5" i.d. length, over 11"
overall. $320.00 Body grafts of #15 polished cotton seine....turksheads of #21 hard-laid cotton seine.
overall. $320.00 Body grafts of #15 polished cotton seine....turksheads of #21 hard-laid cotton seine.
Barrel section with two 3x9 turksheads flanking a 7x6 TH.
End with seven eye-spliced
lines running from the interior
of an 8x7 turks to a
seven-point starknot stopper.
Each end is rove thru a point,
then thru the eye and back thru
the point and is buried inside
the starknot's body.
lines running from the interior
of an 8x7 turks to a
seven-point starknot stopper.
Each end is rove thru a point,
then thru the eye and back thru
the point and is buried inside
the starknot's body.
Detail of end-stopper 7 point starknot... A bit
undressed as it does not yet have its lanyard
installed.
undressed as it does not yet have its lanyard
installed.
If you have a special tube you'd like to have grafted and finished for a needlecase, I'll be happy to do it
for you.
Email me with details for a price quote.
for you.
Email me with details for a price quote.
TIPS:
ALWAYS oil or grease your needles when storing them. A pitted needle is just a PITA to use as it constantly catches on the fabric
being sewn.
Put a pad of cotton or a cottonball with some good penetrating oil in the bottom of the case... it will help prevent 'storage rust'
from forming. This WILL stain the endcap (unless you're using a cork) and, most likely, will migrate through the case wall as
well, staining the exterior, but these are supposed to be WORKING tools, so a bit of staining and marking is to be expected, innit?
If you get one of mine and want to keep it pristine, don't bloody use it, then. Just stick it on the shelf for the punters to ooo and
ahh at, but that's not what I make 'em for. Chris Collins of Vermont just got one and is going to try varnishing and see how it
comes out... I'll let you know.
If your needles DO get rusty, you can clean them with a small can (tightly sealed) about 1/4 full of fine beach sand. Put the
needles in the container with the sand and just gently shake it until your arm thinks it belongs to someone else. Problem with
this is that it also removes the bright finish from the needles, but if you then keep them oiled and grease them prior to use, they
should last a good, long time.
If not putting an oilpad in the case, at least put a cottonball in the bottom so the needles will not dull out from being bashed about
in the tube/case.
ALWAYS put the needles into the case POINT-FIRST (keeps you from looking like a porcupine's victim when you open it later!)
and, if possible, run a bit of sailtwine thru all the eyes to tie them together and further restrict banging about in the case. This
WILL go a long way to preserving something that you can't always conveniently replace, especially at sea.
(more tips on Sailmaking pages)
ALWAYS oil or grease your needles when storing them. A pitted needle is just a PITA to use as it constantly catches on the fabric
being sewn.
Put a pad of cotton or a cottonball with some good penetrating oil in the bottom of the case... it will help prevent 'storage rust'
from forming. This WILL stain the endcap (unless you're using a cork) and, most likely, will migrate through the case wall as
well, staining the exterior, but these are supposed to be WORKING tools, so a bit of staining and marking is to be expected, innit?
If you get one of mine and want to keep it pristine, don't bloody use it, then. Just stick it on the shelf for the punters to ooo and
ahh at, but that's not what I make 'em for. Chris Collins of Vermont just got one and is going to try varnishing and see how it
comes out... I'll let you know.
If your needles DO get rusty, you can clean them with a small can (tightly sealed) about 1/4 full of fine beach sand. Put the
needles in the container with the sand and just gently shake it until your arm thinks it belongs to someone else. Problem with
this is that it also removes the bright finish from the needles, but if you then keep them oiled and grease them prior to use, they
should last a good, long time.
If not putting an oilpad in the case, at least put a cottonball in the bottom so the needles will not dull out from being bashed about
in the tube/case.
ALWAYS put the needles into the case POINT-FIRST (keeps you from looking like a porcupine's victim when you open it later!)
and, if possible, run a bit of sailtwine thru all the eyes to tie them together and further restrict banging about in the case. This
WILL go a long way to preserving something that you can't always conveniently replace, especially at sea.
(more tips on Sailmaking pages)
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